CHURCH LARKING - Upper Sheringham Parish Church

Whatever form All Saints Parish Church took in its earliest incarnation has at some point been erased. Nothing remains of anything prior to the fourteenth century and the style is predominantly the mid to late period Perpendicular. I generally find that churches which have this uniformity of Perpendicular style can be a little lacking in heart and hence an elevating sense of beauty. 

Though All Saints would never be called a ravishingly beautiful church architecturally, it has many features worthy of note. It also bears the undoubted influence of the wealthier North Norfolk churches that it drew on for some of its architectural features. The tall and wide perpendicular windows of its nave are scaled down but very reminiscent of those in Cromer. Likewise the fine clerestory with its alternating quatre foil and arched windows, though smaller in size, is a detail borrowed from its much more flamboyant cousin in Cley next the Sea. 

The early history and origins of Upper Sheringham was as a seafishing village. A mile from the sea, it had a staithe and the smaller poorer fisherman's hamlet of Lower Sheringham. For most of the nine hundred years of the church's existence, it was the larger of the two settlements. Though it never was able to generate or benefit from the immense trading wealth of the medieval period, like in Cley and the Glaven valley churches, because it lacked a natural harbour. Lacking big amounts of money in the economy or wealthy donors, is why this is a serviceable though architecturally far from grand building. It remained the only local church until Lower Sheringham became a tourist destination in the late 19th century. Finally relinquishing its status as Parish Church for both Sheringhams in 1953.

Due to the way the church lies in the village in the protective cleft of an escarpment, its northern side is almost permanently in shadow, getting little direct sunlight. Hence it has to make the most of its light sources. The windows on that side are clear glass with lead patterning, most of its stained glass, largely Victorian or later, is inserted in its sunnier southern side. One three pane light above the nave was blocked up, when the present lower roof was installed. That window was an unusual insertion you do not see often, clearly another attempt to bring more light into the body of the church. Though it must, at times, have had direct sunlight pouring through it, directly into the eyes of the congregation, partially blinding them to what was going on beyond the rood screen in the chancel. 

The light as it beams through the clerestory piercings has a transcendent quality, and is its one literally shining architectural effect. This lifts the appearance of the nave immensely.  The internal roof structure in the nave and chancel was undoubtedly cost effective, but is boxy and perfunctory. This is a shame, because its original 14th century roof was probably much more dramatic and would have had a greater uplifting effect on the overall appearance on the nave. As it is, the arches and pillars of it, stretch down it like broadly spread firm legs framing the tall perpendicular windows in the walls. They are stolid but lack a strong directional elevating quality, this undermines the clerestory above by making it look look squat and cramped.
 

All Saints does posses some fine fourteenth century woodwork, in its distinctive pew bench end carvings featuring cats and mermaids. Its one totally unique fixture, well worth seeking it out for, is its lightly carved rood screen. Its quite skeletal as 14th century rood screens go, but this is a survival from an era before the iconoclasm of the Reformation, that still has the front parapet rail of its loft still in place. And it has a beautiful simply carved ceiling underneath it. The entrance door and the rood stair, still allow access to it. Its not a very spectacular rood screen, but it's stretch is wide, and is an example of how minimal the Perpendicular English Gothic style could be. Its very very rare to find one still in its original place and so relatively intact.

Outside the church has an extensive graveyard, because it continued to be used by both Sheringham Parish Churches. And there were over the centuries an awful lot of deaths at sea. The Upcher Family, who were so instrumental in the 19th century development of Sheringham as a tourist destination, built and landscaped Sheringham Park near bye. The family vault is grandly marked in stone on the outside of the north wall of the Chancel. But any new money the Upcher's brought to the area through their estate came too late, and proved, in the end, to be all too brief to really transform what had now become their estate's church.

Upcher Memorial Vault