CHURCH LARKING - Holkham Parish Church

St Withburga was a local East Anglian Saxon saint, one of four saintly sisters, including St Etheldreda who founded Ely Cathedral. First known as an anchoress, which traditionally meant you lived in isolation in a walled off enclosure. This she is said to have done whilst living in Holkham. She later moved to Dereham in order to found a monastery there. Remaining the Abbess of this until she died at the age of 90. 

When represented in imagery St Withburga is usually shown with a roe deer. It is said it was with the milk and cheese from roe deer that she kept her nunnery fed during a time of famine.There is a symbolic link then between St Withburga and the presence of deer in Holkham Hall's Park, which seems quite apt.

Though the situation of the present church might appear oddly contrived atop a steep sandy mound. This, apparently, is an entirely natural feature in direct alignment with what remains of an Iron Age Fort. This lies just across the other side of the present day coastal road. The church tower was frequently used to guide ships safely into harbour. Holkham means village in a hollow, though it was originally called Withburgstowe in honour of its famous Saintly resident.

During restoration work a Saxon tower"s foundations and indications of a small Norman Church were discovered. A good half of the present church is Early English ( 13th century) in style and origin  it has later additions from both Decorated (14th ) and late Perpendicular (15th-16th) So the church was added to over a period spanning four or five centuries.

However, what you see today does not look that old, it's so pristine and neat. This church, like many across the North Norfolk coast fell into dilapidation during the 17th-18th century. The Coke family, who owned the hall. adopted and made it their estate church in 1767, effectively saving it from ruin. The Countess Dowager of Leicester provided £1,000 of her own money for repairs, in 1767- 68. And £9,000 was spent on further restoration by Juliana the wife of the 2nd Earl Leicester, who died the year this work was completed, in 1870. Her marble memorial lies in the church, though initially this was placed in its own purpose built mausoleum, still visible in the churchyard.

Serious amounts of money were put into the church by the Coke family. and this is why it is adorned with beautiful wood and stone work. Most Victorian restoration simply made workable repairs, replaced leaky roofs and neatened up the crumbling interiors of churches. More often than not removing a lot of the history and character of a building in the process. At St Withburga's this is not the case. 

Patronage has always been important to the maintenance and flourishing of any local church. Here you see what can be done when there is money available to do it well. What you see here is a well kept little church, with lovely decorative flourishes. The elaborate hinges of the entrance door. The colonnaded staircase to the tower above. The rood screen to the side Chapel. The decorated pew ends. All these are executed with delicacy and finesse. 

Yes, you will find it hard to discern what is original, what is restored, and what is entirely new. But when the end result is so appropriate and charming, I for one will not quibble.